It’s still grey and overcast when we wake, the forecast is for better days ahead, will today be the day we find the sun? Or it finds us?
The morning is the typical routine, awaken slowly and too early to be of much use for anything ahead of the morning coffee. Coffee, banana and a yogurt and we’re feeling the day. Clean up the interior of the van, disconnect the electrical service, remove the leveling blocks and we’re away. Today we head to Prince Edward Island, or PEI we are used to referring to it as.
We head toward the Confederation Bridge, the 12.9km (8miles) long concrete structure that connects mainland Canada to its smallest province. Opened in 1997 the bridge has made it significantly easier to visit (and leave) PEI. The toll is $50.25CAD (in 2023) which is paid upon leaving the island.
You can above that from our van we had a very good view from the bridge, those driving cars will barely see above the concrete wall that forms the edge of the bridge deck.
We stop at the PEI visitors center at the far end of the bridge and pickup a lighthouse map and few souvenirs as well as a few alcoholic beverages from the liquor store.
We head to the West across the island stopping in Summerside for groceries. The potato crop is just being planted and we take note of the fact that trees are 3-4 weeks behind Ontario. The same is true of people’s yards as the garden centers are doing a booming business and people are busy planting their gardens.
Potatoes recently planted
Leaving Summerside we drive westward towards West Point where we will camp for the night at Cedar Dunes Provincial Park. We get setup on our site and after a short rest in the van take a walk to the West Point lighthouse.
This is our second time here, the last being in 2000 when we visited with our children and camped in a tent that we carried in our minivan. The park was damaged quite extensively by hurricane Fiona in 2022 with many of the cedar trees being uprooted. There are still some around but the damaged areas are easily spotted and will take many years to recover. As you can see below, our site had a spruce tree on it but it was one of very few. The beach is beautiful and in the summer the water very warm as it faces south. A very nice smaller park to stop at with family for some beach time.
We spent Thursday relaxing and reading in the van whilst the rain showers continued. We did get out for a walk from the campground to the bottom of the ski hills (they don’t allow hiking up them for some reason) and I’ve include a few pictures below.
Sugarloaf Provincial Park, Campbellton,NBSugarloaf campsite.
Friday we packed up and headed out of Campbellton towards Cap-Luminiere, NB. We had no planned stop for the night but there are a couple of campgrounds right on the shore that we felt should have some space.
Mirimichi, NB
We stopped at near Bathurst at a Tim Horton’s for a coffee and sandwich before heading on to Mirimichi where we pulled into town and stopped by the river next to the marina. It was raining again. The town claims to be Canada’s Irish Capital, something that I will need to research as this was news to us. It was while stopped by the river that we changed our plans for the night and decided to continue on to Shediac, NB. It is only a little further than our original destination and we’d get to see the worlds largest lobster!
A short drive later and we’re pulling into Shediac, and there’s the lobster! It is rather large. We stop to take the required photos. It’s stopped raining but is windy and cold.
Shediac, NB
The town of Shediac is clearly very popular with summertime tourists and the town has some very nice looking stores to browse through. We cross town and pull into Parlee Provincial Park. They have lots of camping sites available and decent, clean restrooms and showers (although it takes a $1 coin for the shower to run for 5min). Shower skipped as we showered at Sugarloaf.
Parlee campsite.
We got setup and walked about 1.5km to a nearby restaurant where we enjoyed bacon-wrapped scallops, clam chowder and a lobster club sandwich each. Yummy! The walk back to our campsite was welcomed to allow dinner to settle before tucking in for the night.
The weather forecast is for sunnier days ahead and we’re about to drive over to Prince Edward Island so fingers crossed that we can spend a little more time outdoors in the upcoming days.
Good morning. Power at the campground is still out but we have full coach batteries and so are fine. By 10am we have eaten breakfast and organized the van. It is a till raining but we have reservations in PEI for Saturday and so need to move along a little in order to keep the driving days reasonable.
We’re aiming for a campground in Percé, QC with views of Percé rock. It’s one of the most picturesque places along this coast and in the Summertime can become quite crowded with tourists. We’re hoping the weather eases somewhat as per the forecast.
The drive along the coast is slow and relaxing, albeit wet. We arrive in the town of Gaspé and stop for some lunch. We enjoyed homemade soup and seafood at the Brise Bise restaurant before heading to the Oh les Pains bakery for a few baked treats to take on the road. A quick stop for fuel on the way out of town and back on the road.
Lunch!
Any hopes of the weather breaking are coming coming to an end. The clouds are so low that for most of the drive we can barely see the shoreline or treetops from the van. Corners on road appear out of nowhere as do the hills. We arrive in Percé and it becomes clear watching those outside that it is not a day to sightsee. The campground with a view has none and we decide not to spend money on something we couldn’t see. The weather is not supposed to improve much here over the next 24 hours and as such we decide to push on. We will have to return another year when it’s drier and warmer.
I think there’s a lighthouse somewhere out there.
We aim for Sugarloaf Provincial Park in Campbellton, NB. The forecast looks to be better with only light drizzle, let’s go find out.
The drive along the South shore of the Gaspé peninsula is completely different from the North shore. It is far more populated with many small towns along the way. Agriculture is much more prevalent and the terrain is flatter and not as high. Carleton-sur-mer appeared to be the main touristy center along the coast with a large harbour.
Boutillier Brothers museum, Pasbébiac, QC
A couple of hours along the coast and we’ve turned South to cross into New Brunswick, Canada’s only officially bilingual province. We stop to top off the fuel tank and head just out of Campbellton to Sugarloaf Provincial Park where we plan to stay for the next couple of nights. The campground is only just getting going for the Summer and there is lots of room for us even without a reservation. The site is level and treed, a good place to kick back while we wait for the last of the rainy weather to move out.
Although we grumble about the rain, our thoughts are with friends and family in Ontario suffering with the smoke from the Quebec forest fires. Hoping that everyone is OK and staying safe.
It’s OK gang, you didn’t miss anything, I just chose to combine two days into a single post.
Grand Vallée, QC. The day starts with a beautiful morning, although not clear, the sky is bright and we awake to the view across the St. Lawrence river. Our drive to Forillon National Park is only about 90km and so we enjoy a relaxing morning at the campground with showers and a nice breakfast.
Shortly before noon we head into the town to pickup coffee creamer. The sun is still shining but we know the forecast calls for changing conditions as the day goes on.
Heading East we skirt along the coast rising and falling with the river valleys and mountains. Nearing the easternmost point of the Gaspé peninsula, Cap-de-Rosier, the terrain smooths out and there are clearly fewer trees able to survive what must be a very windy existence. Fishing and tourism appear to be the lifeblood of the area and as the skies become more threatening I suspect that the community will see little income from either in the upcoming days.
We slow to look at the Cap-de-Rosier lighthouse, the tallest in Canada, and continue onwards to Forillon National Park. We’ve decided to stay for a night before continuing to Percé tomorrow.
The campground is really very nice with fairly level sites just off of the beach amongst the trees. The rain has started but at present it’s light drizzle and so we go for an exploratory walk to the beach. The clouds are getting lower and the waves are increasing with the winds now blowing onshore. There is a heaviness to the air that makes me think the forecast is probably right. The rain will be heavy tonight.
Back in the van we settle in for the night with dinner and some online videos. The rain is now steadily drumming the roof.
Sleep did not come easily as the rain continued it’s incessant drumming all night and is persisting this morning. The forecast is for it to continue throughout the day and so we decide to extend our stay here for another night before continuing along the coast.
We spent the day reading and relaxing while the rain fell. The forecast had been for 50-75mm, things were pretty wet outside.
Later in the afternoon there was a break in the rain and I managed to get in a 6km walk along a trail that parallels the beach. The ground is saturated and I get wet feet but it feels good to be out and about. I stop on the beach and watch the now angry looking waves crash into the shoreline. The sight and sound of the ocean clawing at the shore takes me back to my childhood and the many English beaches my family visited. I could have sat on beach watching for a while but the rain was starting again and I didn’t need to get soaked as drying clothing in the van is not easy.
Nighttime came and we settled in warmed by our small ceramic heater, that is until the middle of the night when the campground power went out. We were now ‘wild camping’ and as it was single digits outside decided to run the propane furnace to get through the night.
All for now, come back again to see how we make out and what we do next.
A crisp 6C start to the day. The winds have dropped quite a lot but it’s still breezy coming off of the water. We packed up and prepared to leave, no shorts and tee shirts today.
We were about to pull out of our sight when I looked across the road and spotted a colleague from my work days. They too are traveling towards the East and so we may cross paths again over the next few days. Quite a surprise to bump into someone you know so far from home.
On the road we decide to take the quieter backroads as opposed to the autoroute. This has us meandering along the shoreline through small quaint villages each with their own character and charm.
Moulin du Petit-Sault
We drive through Rimouski and then stop in Pointe-au-Père to look at the exhibits set up for the lighthouse, the Empress of Ireland and the submarine ‘Onondaga’. First, it’s still 8C with a stiff wind off the water making it feel much cooler than this. We decide for a simple walk about and did not go into the museum that commemorates the collision and subsequent sinking of the Empress of Ireland in 1914 with the loss of over 1,000 immigrant lives. This remains today, the worst maritime disaster in Canadian waters.
Pointe-au-Père, QC
Arriving in Matane we stop for fuel. This turns out to be important as the smaller towns past this point do not all have gas stations. We also stop at the Poissonnerie Bertrand Desbois where Barb picked up lunch (Lobster roll & chips and fish & chips) as well as a seafood pizza for later. Mmm.
Poissonnerie Bertrand Desbois, Matane, QC
Barb takes over the driving for the afternoon and the roads become much hillier as we drive further East with at least one hill being posted at a 14% grade down with sharp curves at the bottom (of course).
Our day concludes at the town of Grande-Vallée where we stop at the campground ‘Camping au Soleil Couchant’. The campground is quiet, the lots are grassy and level and each has a wonderful view across the St Lawrence.
Camping au Soleil Couchant
We enjoy our pizza and watch some online videos before enjoying the sunset. Good night one and all.
Bonjour! As you might be able to guess today we set-off on our East coast trip to the Maritimes & we are starting in ‘la belle province de Québec’. (Oh, the title of this post is ‘Our view from the road’ for those of our readers that do not read French.)
Restless night, so am tired this morning but managed to go for a 6km walk before completing prep to leave. We drive out of the laneway at 9:30am and head into town to top off with fuel and then onto Winchester where we stop at Tim Horton’s for a breakfast sandwich and coffee. Hwy31 takes us to Hwy401 where we turn East towards Cornwall, ON. We cross into Québec and cross the St Lawrence river at Salaberry-de-Valleyfield before joining the Autoroute30 that takes us across the southern side of Montreal. At Boucherville we join Autoroute20 which we will follow to our destination in Rivière-du-Loup.
In all the drive takes about 7.5hrs including a stop for lunch and another for fuel. The day started overcast; however, by the time we got past Montreal the skies had cleared and were a beautiful blue. The only thing that detracted from a relaxed driving experience was the wind. Coming from the East it was blowing across the highway at times gusting above 60kmh. It made for a very tiring day of driving and I was really glad to pull into the “Camping municipal de la pointe” campground.
We have a site overlooking the St Lawrence and will get to watch the sunset from the van. The temperature is only 10C and so sitting outside in the wind would require a braver constitution than I have.
Tomorrow we continue along the south shore of the St Lawrence as we begin our exploration of the Gaspé region. Bon nuit.
Awake at 6:30am following a nice night in the park. I head off to the shower hoping that I find hot water. I am mostly satisfied as the water is warm and pleasant enough to enjoy. Barb reports from her slightly later shower that the system was now up-to-speed and supplying plenty of very hot water. Just my luck to have been the first of the day. Showers get a 8/10 loosing points on general cleaniness and age. Security and privacy were very good as each shower is in its own room. Water supply was also very good, not a dribble as can be found in some campgrounds.
We depart our site at 8:45am and head to the dump-station. It is clean and well equipped with rinse hose. Heading out of the park we head East long US-5 and I turn to head toward Fredonia, NY only to find a railroad underpass with a signed 10’-1” headroom clearance. STOP! At a supposed 10’-0” height for the van I was not about to test either the factory spec or accuracy of the sign so I turned about and headed into Dunkirk, NY where I crossed over the railroad tracks in order to return to the I-90 East.
The drive into Buffalo and through the city is uneventful and before long we are heading East through Western New York farmland. As the long weekend is over the highways are busier with truck traffic than we have seen for the past day or so but in general everyone behaves themselves and before we know it we leave the I-90 and join the I-81 North towards Watertown, NY where we stop for fuel and a sandwich in the van. Barb drops into Walmart and picks up a set of new melamine bowls that she has not been able to find in Canada since returning from the US Southwest a few weeks ago.
We decide to not cross back into Canada using the Ivy-Lea crossing, but instead turn onto US-37 and head towards Ogdensburg, NY and use the quieter crossing. This allows us to slow down and enjoy the day more and avoid having to drive on Hwy-401. At the bridge I learned that having dually rear wheels costs $9.00CAD instead of $4.25CAD to cross the bridge. I’d not noticed this in previous crossings over the past year or so, but had read online that others had experienced an up charge for the same reason on other toll roads and bridges.
Canadian customs was not busy and the staff efficient and much more pleasant than their US counterparts that we engaged with just a few days ago. Yay!
Driving home along Hwy-416 we both agreed that it was once again nice to be home in Canada and that, at least for now, we were both USA’d out for a while. We are looking forward to the Maritime leg of this trip which we plan on starting in just a few days, so check back soon for more updates from the road.
Well, the night was warm and the nearby I-65 was at times a bit noisy. Evidently there is also a railroad close to this Cracker Barrel which a few times overnight woke me. So, we are at 7:00am awake and getting ready for breakfast. The restaurant is open and based on the number of cars already in the lot, a popular place to start the day. We enjoy eggs & bacon and a cup of coffee before heading back out onto the I-65 East.
We immediately enter the state of Ohio and for the next couple of hours enjoy its pastoral landscape. We get off the interstate and take some smaller backroads to head NorthEast towards Cleveland. At one point in a small town we have to turn around and take an alternate route as the town had closed its Main Street for a Memorial Day running event.
We bypass Cleveland and head toward Erie, PA. We bypass Erie and head into the state of New York along I-90. We hop off the interstate before it becomes a toll road to get fuel. Our destination is a short drive along US-5 past a number of vineyards that line the coast of Lake Erie in this area.
We arrive at Lake Erie State Park without a reservation. We had checked online and it appeared that most campers had departed after the long weekend and thus there should be plenty of room for us. We were right!!! In fact, even better was that the computer system was offline resulting in the park attendant granting us a free night!
The park is quiet and has lots of hardwood trees scattered about for shade. The park is also right on the shore of the lake with wonderful views of the sunset. We arrived mid-afternoon and so we’re able to relax and enjoy the view and lakeside breezes before having roast beef sandwiches and salads for dinner in the van. A little TV to relax by during the evening and then a walk to the beach to enjoy that stunning sunset.
Sunset across Lake Erie
Good night one and all, I hope you to have recently enjoyed a glowing sunset. see you tomorrow!
6:00am and thousands of sleeping campers are awakened by one fool who thinks it’s cute to fire off an enormous thundering firework to announce the start of Race Day. Thanks buddy.
So, we’re awake and enjoying a light breakfast when we realize that we are now being entertained by Christmas music. Yep, someone is blasting ‘Rudolph the red nosed reindeer’ just for something to do we guess.
As the morning progresses more people emerge from their tents and trailers, most looking a little worse for wear after possibly over-indulging last night. ‘The hair of the dog that bit you’ seems to be the remedy of choice as many are enjoying what I’m sure will be the first of many beers consumed this day. It’s now 8:30am.
We prepare our lunch and pack a cooler bag with wraps, snacks, water & pop that we will take into the speedway. Last year we found that getting food during the event from on-site vendors was just too challenging with some running out of items so this year we’re going prepared to take care of ourselves.
10:00am and we leave our campsite for the track. It’s about a 10min walk to the gate where we pass through metal detectors and then have our tickets scanned. Voila, we’re in.
We’ve arrived at the infield of the IMS!
We stop by an official merchandise shop to pickup this years program and commemorative pin for display in the van. We briefly stopped by the ‘Fan Zone’ behind the main stands but it was incredibly overcrowded and so we proceeded directly to our seats. In all it took about an 45min of maneuvering through the crowds to get to our seats. These are the same ones as last year thanks to Dean Lawrence who goes above and beyond ordering and acquiring everything for our group. Cheers again Bud.
An idea of the crowds near the infield Fan-Zone
It’s now 11:00am and the official pre-race ceremonies are underway. It being Memorial Day weekend, the military are front and center with walkbys, drivebys, and flybys being the order of the day. Lots of pomp and circumstance. At 11:45am the driver introductions occur with the fan favorites receiving the loudest appreciation from the fans. The singing of ‘God Bless America’ and the national anthem takes place ahead of those famous words “Drivers, start your engines”. The grid roars to life and becomes much less crowded as unnecessary personnel leave the track. The cars pull away for a few parade laps followed by the pace lap and then we’re underway!
Pre-race activities. A reported 300,000 in attendance.
The cars lap the 2.5mile track in about 40seconds at speeds averaging over 210mph. The race settles into a rhythm and before we know it 100laps are complete. The clouds are clearing and the day is heating up. There’s no shade over our seats so the water that we brought becomes really important. 150laps, three-quarters race distance and the race has been mostly uneventful. Cars we expected to do well are running near the front and those that struggled to qualify are hanging on at the rear of the pack, some now lapped once or twice.
Our view of the track, the pits in the foreground and the closest digital info board. I see the race is 100laps in and under a yellow flag condition.
We’re nearing the end of the race now and there are a few accidents as drivers start taking a few more chances looking for ways to pass that might or might not work. Officials decide to red flag the race causing racing to stop while each of two accidents are cleared from the track. This is to allow for a racing finish as opposed to a parade finish behind a pace car. These delay our leaving the stands and the heat, it’s becoming quite unbearable and we’ve finished our water supplies. The last red flag incidents means that the race will be settled in a one lap sprint around the track, the green flag drops and the cars tear down the front straight and into turn1 and turn2. The car running 2nd gets a great run out of turn2 and passes for the lead before turn3. The two cars leading the pack go through turn4 and the lead car weaves crazily trying to break the aerodynamic tow. They weave into and out of the pit lane entrance before returning to the track for the sprint to the line. Exciting stuff as the 2nd place car pulls out to attempt the pass but is out of time and distance, Josef Newgarden, driving for Team Penske wins!
Panoramic view from our seats of the front straight.
We collect our cooler bag and start the walk out of the stands. Behind us the winner is celebrating and will shortly be drinking the celebratory milk that is tradition for this race.
We say our goodbyes to our friends, Dean & Cathy and J-P & Lisa as they head towards the shuttles that will return them to their hotel while we join the thousands that are exiting the speedway toward Georgetown Rd. We make good time and in only about 30min we are back at our van. Time for a cold beer!
The van interior is 36C, I start the onboard generator and turn on the rooftop a/c. Argh! I’m being pelted with small black bits of plastic! I shutoff the a/c and the generator knowing the cause of the plastic rain. It has been reported by others that own the same type and model of a/c that 2 motor mounting bolts can vibrate loose causing the squirrel cage fans to rub on the housing causing them to shred. I had checked for this loosening last year and found it not to be an issue; however, after traveling another 15000km or so, I guess I should have checked again. Hmmm. The good news is that the fix is simple and I will take care of it when we get home before heading to the Maritimes.
For now, we get to relax in a very hot van with the doors and windows all open. Traffic is horrifically bad immediately after the race and so sitting still for an hour or so allows the traffic to improve before we head out.
Yep, we’ve decided not to stay a 2nd night but instead head East cutting some of the driving down from tomorrows itinerary. At 6:45pm we pull out of the camping field and join the still steady stream of traffic. Our drive in the traffic jam lasts only about 45min before we get into I-65 heading across the city and the drive out of the city is uneventful.
We continue on I-65 for an hour or so and pull off the highway in Richmond, IN just before the Ohio state line. We get fuel and will spend the night parked in a Cracker Barrel. Good night all, hopefully no loud fireworks to awaken us tomorrow.
After enjoying a beverage and slice of pizza at our hosts last evening, we enjoyed a long and silent night.
The views across the farmland this morning were serene. Windmills on the horizon quietly turning about their business whilst a few early farming types were up and running about getting a jump on the days chores.
We get going at about 8:45am and head back towards highway 401. The border crossing at Windsor is only about 45 min away and so we are hoping to beat the Saturday rush. Not quite.
Crossing into Detroit
US Customs is busy with many lanes open for traffic each having between 6 and 9 vehicles waiting. We join a line of 6 cars and 1 minibus. Mistake #1. The minibus takes a while for all passengers to be processed and then the lane is closed temporarily while there is a shift change of agents.
Our turn comes and it isn’t long before we realize that we have inherited the badass agent out to prove something to someone. We’re grilled. We’re boarded. We’re released. Phew. 25 minutes in all to clear US Customs. Argh.
Detroit driving is actually very good and the I-75 South towards Toledo flows smoothly. Potholes, lots. Construction, also lots but as it’s Saturday we pass right through without any delays.
Before we know it we’re driving around Toledo and onto US-24 towards Fort Wayne, IN. This is a beautiful road. Quiet, smooth, relatively flat.
When we arrive in Fort Wayne we head towards town and stop for fuel and groceries at a WalMart. Whilst stopped we made ourselves lunch in the van.
Back on the road we head now towards Indianapolis. Traffic builds as we get into the city as there are lots of construction zones we need to slow down for. We head around the city on I-465 and then take I-65 towards the Speedway. A few more turns and we’re driving down Georgetown Road towards IMS Lot 1-A where we are camping whilst in town.
A friendly campground host sets us up in a really nice spot at the edge of the camping field away from the rowdiest of campers. Excellent!
IMS Lot 1-A campsite
We’re meeting friends while here and they pick us up in their truck shortly after we arrive. We go back to their hotel which is next to the Indianapolis Colts football stadium and enjoy a couple of drinks while catching up on everyone’s travels from Ottawa to Indy.
We take an Uber downtown to Fogo de Chāo a Brazilian Steakhouse where all enjoyed a wonderful meal while telling tales and laughing at ourselves and the escapades enjoyed throughout our long term friendships.
Barb and I took an Uber back to the campsite to end the day and fell asleep to the thrum of generators, music and fireworks.
Tomorrow, the Indy 500. That’s it, that’s all, a motor race. Sleep tight everyone! Vroom, vroom.
Welcome to the first in a series of posts in which we will share with you a trip to the Canadian Maritime provinces. We’re traveling in our 2022 PleasureWay OnTour 2.2 camper-van again and plan on staying at a variety of campgrounds along the way. It’s late May 2023 and our plan is to complete this trip over the next four weeks arriving home ahead of Canada Day (July 1st). We hope you enjoy reading about our travels and will check back often as we add to Our View From The Road.
It’s Friday. It’s early. It’s day one of a new adventure. We’re excited. We’re off…. But wait, why are we heading West? I thought this was a series of posts about going to the East coast? Remember I said, it’s late May? That can only mean that it’s time again to head to Indianapolis for the 107th running of the Indianapolis 500 !!!!! That’s right, we’re heading back for a 2nd year.
7:00am and I’m out for my 5km walk, a beautiful morning. 8:40am and we’re out of the laneway. Towards Prescott and Hwy-401. Our first stop was the Mallorytown OnRoute service center for fuel and breakfast. Not a huge Tim’s fan but it does fine for this morning. The driving is good for a Friday, the usual compliment of trucks setting the pace whilst impatient drivers try to carve around them.
Toronto comes and goes. Early Friday afternoon traffic slows us a little but soon we’re cruising past the airport and on our way out of town.
Our next stop is the Cambridge OnRoute this time only for gas. $1.709 / litre for regular, ouch. We’re getting hungry but decide to push on.
Woodstock OnRoute and we stop to take a break in the picnic area. This is a wonderfully quiet, shady spot to take a break and enjoy a sandwich in our van. Not much further today so we finish up and get back on the road.
Past London, West Lorne and finally we pull off of the highway at Blenheim. Our stop for tonight is the Red Barn Brewing Company. As a Harvest Hosts location, we stay for the cost of trying some of their goods. They are fairly new based upon the nice barn structure in which they are situated. They have a nice outdoor patio and some activities to enjoy such as the game of cornhole. The beer selection is quite good and we buy a few to enjoy whilst traveling about.
Tomorrow we cross into the US of A. Sleep well everyone.
Sorry but there are no pictures from today, we were just to focused on our destination and forgot to pickup the camera.
Days 45 & 46 were spent visiting family & there was no specific post for those days.
This is it, the last day of this trip. We are up early and it’s cool. We enjoy breakfast and say our goodbyes (for now) and hit the road. Our first stop is just a few blocks away at a public dump station where we empty our tanks for the last time.
We drive cross-country towards Cambridge, ON where we join Hwy 401E towards Toronto. The traffic is steady but being a Sunday there are few trucks on the road. This allows traffic to flow easily and before we know it we’re in Toronto passing the airport.
Traffic comes to a short halt a couple of times as we cross the city but nothing that causes any real delays. We stop at the highway service center near Port Hope, ON where we grab a sandwich and coffee before filling up with fuel. Argh! Canadian fuel prices are harsh.
The drive towards Eastern Ontario goes smoothly and we arrive at home by mid-afternoon. The tree damage from the recent ice storm looks severe and will take some time to clean up, but that’s for another day.
Before (March 8, 2023)After (April 25, 2023)
This trip has been amazing, we’re both tired and looking forward to resuming our home lives but for now, we sit and reflect on the sights and experiences we’ve shared in recent weeks.
As mentioned in my last post, I hope to post a summary of our trip in the upcoming days so watch for it. Thanks again for coming along for the ride & we hope you join us again on our future trips.
So this is it, our last day of this trip in the USA and it starts with another beautiful morning. We enjoy a quick breakfast and pack up the van for the drive.
We head out and immediately have a small issue, our phones (used for GPS mapping functions while on the road) are not connecting to a network. Luckily as this is the last US leg and we’re somewhat familiar with where we are going we can push on. We figure out over the next few hours that it’s only an issue with AT&T, if we change our phones to use Verizon they work fine.
We head towards Fort Wayne, IN and have to decide which route to take. Detroit or Lansing. I’d prefer to avoid Detroit because of traffic and construction, but Lansing will add about an hour to our drive time. We’re tired of driving and so Detroit it is. At Fort Wayne we head NE towards Toledo, OH and hope that we don’t get caught up in any major delays.
We’ve already noticed the lack of leaves on the trees when compared to our drive of yesterday. Spring is only just beginning in the Northern states.
Toledo, OH is under construction, or at least the I-75N is. It gets better as we cross into Michigan, but then in Detroit it feels as if they’ve decided to completely redo the entire highway system. We muddle on and emerge the other side of the city unscathed. Yay!
A quick lunch stop at McD’s and then a stop at one last US gas station. It seems like just a few minutes later and we’re paying the bridge toll (Debit/Credit only, cash no longer accepted). Over the Bluewater bridge and into Ontario.
Canada Border Protection Services happily allow us to re-enter Canada with a minimal delay (less than 5min total from bridge to Hwy 402). Yay, we’re home, Eh!
Our last hour for the day takes us along the shore of Lake Huron to Grand Bend where we stop at Tim Horton’s for a coffee (Mmm, Timmies) before heading to Exeter, ON where we are spending a couple of days with Barb’s parents.
This marks the end of daily posts for this, our 2023 Southwestern US tour. I will put up a post in the upcoming days about our drive across Ontario towards home as well as one or two posts summarizing the trip in the next week or so. Whether you’ve followed us regularly or just found our blog, thanks for reading. I hope that you’ve enjoyed our view from the road.
Thanks for coming along with us!
BTW, we are planning a tour of the Maritime provinces in just a few weeks, so watch out for another series of posts starting soon. Cheers.
A nice quiet night at the Walmart parking lot in Russellville, KY. We’re up early with the sun again and soon all set to get back on the road.
A short drive to Bowling Green, KY where we stop at the Crumbl cookie store. We’ve been hearing good things about their cookies so thought we’d give them a try.
Crumbl cookies
We joined the I-65N and headed toward Louisville, KY. Lots of trucks again and the terrain means I’m passing them uphill & then they’re passing me downhill. A couple of hours in and we cross the Ohio River into Indiana.
Louisville,KY
From here the road is flatter and the driving easier. We stop for a quick break and bite to eat at a rest stop and then head onwards toward Indianapolis, IN. We take the I-465 around the city and veer off on the I-69N towards our stop for today in Anderson, IN at Mounds State Park.
The park is tranquil and fairly quiet with most sites being empty. We back in, have something to eat (Chick-fil-a chicken) and then both enjoy a late afternoon nap.
Mounds State Park, Anderson, INGoogle tells me this is Cercis
Tomorrow we plan on completing our Northward trek back to Canada and should be crossing the border back into Ontario in the afternoon. check back again to see how we get along!
We awake in Russellville. Tonight we sleep in Russellville. Huh? What gives?
This morning we started in Russellville, AR. Tonight we are about 450miles further towards home and are staying in Russellville, KY. It wasn’t planned this way however.
The day started fairly normally and after breakfast we rejoined I-40E towards Memphis, TN.
Drive to Memphis, TNCrossing the Mississippi River
Once past Memphis we head towards Nashville, TN stopping to do a little shopping in Jackson, TN and have lunch. Rejoining the I-40E the traffic increases as we get closer to Nashville. I then notice that the Waze GPS app is re-routing us because of traffic issues in Nashville. It does this a few times and then Barb notices that on Google maps in the city of Nashville traffic is a mess! Time to divert.
From Tennessee into Kentucky
Barb determines a route cross-country toward our intended destination, Bowling Green, KY. I take the next exit and avoid the traffic. Barb then tells me that we could actually stop for the night in a town with the same name as where we started, Russellville, KY.
And so here we, ‘back where we started’ as it were. Ha ha ha.
Tomorrow, we head North. We’ll leave Kentucky and head into Indiana. See you there.
So here we are, the beginning of the end. Today we begin our drive towards Ontario & home. It will take a few days, but compared to the past few weeks our pace will seem meteoric as our goal is to cover distance and not dawdle about.
The sunrise was beautiful as we watched through the Mesquite trees while eating breakfast. We packed up the van and headed out. The Bisons politely congregated near the entrance to the park allowing us to take some final pictures.
Bye Bye Bison
We headed North across country towards the I-40E. This route had us driving through some small towns that for the most part are now almost ghost towns as most of the Main Street stores are sadly vacant and boarded up. One of the towns, Memphis, TX has all of its downtown streets paved with cobblestones which have it a really charming feeling, that is until you see all of the vacant shops. Sad.
North Texas grasslands
Once on the I-40E we quickly cross into Oklahoma. Near Hydro, OK we stop to look at our last Route 66 site, Lucille’s gas station was operated by Lucille Hamons from 1941 until her death on August 18, 2000, the site was added to the US National Register of Historic Places in 1997.
Lucille’s gas station
We are accompanied by strong crosswinds as we cross Oklahoma; however, the grasslands slowly disappear and by Oklahoma City many more trees can be seen including now large leaf deciduous trees and larger conifers. Large-scale farming has been replaced by smaller farms interspersed throughout the wooded hillsides. By the time we get to the Arkansas state line, the farms have mostly disappeared (as have the winds) and now the scenery is forested hillsides amongst the lakes and waterways that will become the Ozarks.
Our View From The Road
After almost 9hrs on the road, we pull off at Russellville, AR and pull into the Cracker Barrel parking lot where we will have dinner and spend the night.
I’m up at 6:45am to turn on the propane and then the furnace. This means going outside at 6C in my shorts. Brrr. However, the warmth from the furnace feels nice and by 7:30am the inside of the van is a toasty 18C. Time to make some coffee.
We move from the Wild Horse campground to the regular campground today but first it’s time for eggs and sausage cooked on the griddle. We figure this will be the last griddle cooked meal for this trip so a little extra time is spent cleaning after we’ve eaten.
We pack most items into the passenger area of the van as the move to the new campground is only a few kilometers. Once ready, we back out of our site and leave the campground turning away from our destination as we want to briefly explore the deeper areas of the park. Some of the road is very steep and not accessible to those with trailers. The tenting campgrounds look nice but remote; however, they have fantastic views of the red canyon walls.
We see a few Bison grazing near the road and taking a drink in a lake.
Bison
We visit the park office to get our tag for the new campsite but we can’t occupy it until 12:00pm. Off to the showers! Ahhhh, hot water. This is nice. We both are less smelly as we arrive at our new campsite.
We’ll only be here for the day and overnight, but we both agree that this is the nicest state park campsite we’ve had all trip.
Campsite
We have lunch and go for a walk along the canyon edge and take a few photos. We see a herd of Bison not far away, but watch them to ensure they’re not looking our way and potentially blocking our return to the van. No problems, they’re busy grazing and are far enough say that we pass without them paying us any heed.
Sitting under the shade structure writing this and I just got blasted by a dust devil that blew right through our site. Might need to clean the van out again as the door is open!
We spend the remainder of the afternoon planning the last few days of our trip and chatting with friends and family.
A warm night last night and neither of us had a good sleep initially. Then the temperature dropped and we both slept really well into the early morning. Uncharacteristically we didn’t wake until around 7:30am.
I decided to go for a walk along the Wild Horse trail and explore the lower portion of the canyon. Initially the trail starts at the top of the canyon wall with some lovely views across and along the canyon. It then descends down into the canyon where it wanders along the bottom crossing a dry riverbed several times.
It was while descending into one of these crossings I turned and saw a small herd of Bison. They were about 100m from me but the bull saw me and turned to look at me. I stood still and took a few photos before quietly retreating back along the trail I had walked.
Returning back to the campsite I passed Barb who was going on her own exploration. She found some interesting plants to take pictures of.
We cooked bacon and eggs for breakfast and settled in for a quiet day of reading and relaxation. I finished the book that I had picked up in Albuquerque and Barb finished what was her 6th book of this trip.
We watched as others left the park and new neighbors replaced them. We even witnessed a couple riding horses towards the canyon as they passed through the campground.
Horse riders
The winds returned around dinner time and we were forced to eat in the van to avoid having Texan dust added to our meal as a seasoning. It sure is windy in these parts.
Last night and tonight we are staying in the Wild Horse campground of the park. It is an area designated for folks who camp with their horses as each site has a corral for Horses and is fenced from having the Bison wandering through the sites (evidently Horses and Bison do not get along). We chose to stay in this area because there was no available sites in the regular campground. Tomorrow we move to the regular campground within the park where the sites have electrical connections as well as water. There are also showers which we are very much looking forward to using.
That’s it for today, check back tomorrow to see what we get up to.
The winds died down overnight and it was calm by the time we woke. Today we will stop at the Palo Duro Canyon State Park. We had originally wanted to camp there but they had no sites and thus we will become day visitors instead.
We’re leaving the winery at about 9:30am and the state park is only a 20 minute drive. There’s a small line up of cars entering the park so it only takes a few minutes and we’re in.
Our first stop is an overlook that provides a picturesque vista of the canyon. We also visit the gift shop and interpretive center to learn a little of how the canyons in this part of Texas were formed.
Scenic overlookInterpretive center & gift shop
Access into the canyon is down a steep 10% grade with several switchbacks. At the bottom the main park road encircles the canyon bottom and is several miles in length.
It is hot. 31C hot. I’ve heard people say “Yeah, but it’s a dry heat”. OK, but hot is still hot so sunscreen, hats and bottles of water are a must as we set out to do a little walking on some of the trails.
We choose an easy trail that is near the river and only about 1 mile in length. We took off down another trail by accident and when done had walked over 2 miles with little to no shade. Oops.
Trail walking
For lunch we parked the van in one of the many picnic spots that have shelters over the tables to provide shade. Lunch was yummy and a nice reward for completing the hike.
Sights from our walk
Leaving the canyon we head southeast towards our next camping spot at Caprock Canyon State Park in Quitaque (pronounced Kitty-quay). On the way from Canyon to Quitaque the landscape changed from flat (really flat) agricultural grasslands to less flat central Texas plains where there are trees and things seem to be much greener than up on the grasslands above the canyons.
Flat Texas grasslands
We are staying at Caprock for 3 nights and plan on hiking some of the trails and relaxing. This is our last ‘destination’ for this trip. On Monday we begin our eastward drive toward Ontario. I will blog along the way, but before then come back and see what we get up to here at Caprock.
